May
27
Types of Sewing Machines
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Alison Cole asked:
There are three types of sewing machines- mechanical sewing machines, electronic sewing machines, and computerized sewing machines. Since their introduction in 1800 till 1960’s, all sewing machines were mechanical. Mechanical sewing machines are controlled by a rotary wheel. They have knobs and dials to make changes in the tension or the length or width of the stitch.
Lockstitch sewing machines make use of a hook and a bobbin thread to create stitch patterns, whereas chain stitch machines use a looper to form stitches. One of the major drawbacks of chain stitching is that it is very weak and the stitch can easily be pulled apart. In addition to lock stitching and chain stitching machines, there are blind stitch and buttonhole-and-button-sewing machines that use a spreader to create stitches.
Mechanical sewing machines are less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machine in terms of build. Bernina 1008, Kenmore 11101, Singer 6038, Elna 2005, Kenmore Mini, Kenmore 15212, and Sears Kenmore 15218 are some of the mechanical sewing machines available in the market.
By the year 1970, electronic sewing machines became popular. There are more features in an electronic sewing machine than in a mechanical sewing machine. Instead of turning knobs or dials, electronic sewing machines use button to adjust length or width of the stitch. Electronic sewing machines have motors; each one is assigned with a specific task and is run by electricity. Singer 7442, Singer 7462, Singer CE-100 Futura, Elna 3230, and Janome Decor Excel 5124 are some instances of electronic sewing machines.
Another type is the computerized sewing machine, which is very fast and easy to use. Computerized sewing machines are similar to electronic sewing machines. They use the same chips and stepper motors that are used in electronic machines. Besides, they posses a microprocessor which helps the sewing machine to accept new information in a card form and create stitching patterns based on the information loaded in the card. Singer CE-200 Quantum Futura, Singer Quantum XL-6000, Brother SE270D, and Janome 8080 are some examples of computerized sewing machine.
Chantelle
There are three types of sewing machines- mechanical sewing machines, electronic sewing machines, and computerized sewing machines. Since their introduction in 1800 till 1960’s, all sewing machines were mechanical. Mechanical sewing machines are controlled by a rotary wheel. They have knobs and dials to make changes in the tension or the length or width of the stitch.
Lockstitch sewing machines make use of a hook and a bobbin thread to create stitch patterns, whereas chain stitch machines use a looper to form stitches. One of the major drawbacks of chain stitching is that it is very weak and the stitch can easily be pulled apart. In addition to lock stitching and chain stitching machines, there are blind stitch and buttonhole-and-button-sewing machines that use a spreader to create stitches.
Mechanical sewing machines are less expensive and are the simplest type of sewing machine in terms of build. Bernina 1008, Kenmore 11101, Singer 6038, Elna 2005, Kenmore Mini, Kenmore 15212, and Sears Kenmore 15218 are some of the mechanical sewing machines available in the market.
By the year 1970, electronic sewing machines became popular. There are more features in an electronic sewing machine than in a mechanical sewing machine. Instead of turning knobs or dials, electronic sewing machines use button to adjust length or width of the stitch. Electronic sewing machines have motors; each one is assigned with a specific task and is run by electricity. Singer 7442, Singer 7462, Singer CE-100 Futura, Elna 3230, and Janome Decor Excel 5124 are some instances of electronic sewing machines.
Another type is the computerized sewing machine, which is very fast and easy to use. Computerized sewing machines are similar to electronic sewing machines. They use the same chips and stepper motors that are used in electronic machines. Besides, they posses a microprocessor which helps the sewing machine to accept new information in a card form and create stitching patterns based on the information loaded in the card. Singer CE-200 Quantum Futura, Singer Quantum XL-6000, Brother SE270D, and Janome 8080 are some examples of computerized sewing machine.
Chantelle
May
23
Home Sewing – How To Make Your Sewing Not Look Homemade
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Thelma Horton asked:
Most of us will agree that sewing your own clothes saves you money and brings great satisfaction. It is gratifying when you complete a project and can say that you sewed it yourself. But, perhaps the biggest reason most people do not sew their own clothes is because they look homemade. You start out with visions that the outfit will look exactly on you the way it looked on the pattern envelope, but when it’s finished it looks like something is missing. And, you can’t quite put your finger on what it is.
I remember, as a teenager, staying up all night to finish an outfit so I could wear something new the next day for a special event or occasion. Even though I thought I looked cute, people could tell it was homemade, the night before. The only time the iron touched it was when it was finished, and then I really ironed it… hard. I didn’t know what was missing until I stepped into a home economics sewing class, and saw a bunch of odd looking tools that I did not recognize, or know how to use.
What I learned in that sewing class was that the secret to making home sewing not look homemade was in the press…using those odd looking tools. I didn’t know that if I put off pressing the garment until completion, that it would be too late to set in the shape. I didn’t know that no matter how well I sewed, the professional look was also a result of proper pressing.
Yes, properly pressing seams as you sew actually shapes the garment and sets the stitching lines. As we all know, the body is not flat, it has curves, and using the ironing board alone will not shape the garment properly. The only way to shape your garment is by using the proper pressing equipment along with the ironing board.
If you are like me, and most home sewers, before taking a sewing class, you are also unfamiliar with specialized pressing equipment and not accustomed to using them. But, using the proper sewing tools along with the proper pressing and sewing techniques makes the difference in the end result. It helps shape the fabric so it will fit the body more smoothly. Some of those odd looking pressing tools are listed below:
o Steam iron for pressing and shaping fabric and setting stitches at all stages of construction.
o Ironing board, well padded and smoothly covered in 100% cotton cover, absorbs moisture from the steam iron.
o Tailor’s ham for pressing shaped areas and curved seams.
o Seam roll, or sleeve roll, for pressing seam allowances open and pressing seams in narrow areas.
o Clapper for pressing sharp creases without it looking over-pressed.
o Wooden point presser for pressing corners and points, and pressing straight seams open.
o Press cloths for protecting the right side of the fabric during pressing.
Pressing is different from ironing. When most of us iron, we use a back and forth motion, moving the iron over the fabric. In pressing, the iron is lowered to the place to be pressed, then raised off the fabric, and moved to the next area.
Ironing board covers should be 100% cotton because the all-cotton fabric absorbs the moisture so that the fashion fabric will dry quickly. The traditional ironing covers with the reflective surface, actually reflects the steam, and may cause burn damage to some fabrics and slows down the drying process when you’re shaping with steam.
First, be sure you know the fabric content to determine the proper heat setting for the iron, then follow the techniques below as you sew your garment pieces together.
Press curved areas such as darts, hiplines, bustlines and collars over the tailor’s ham from the wrong side with the point of the dart smoothed flat over the end of the ham to shape their curve. Horizontal darts should be pressed down, and vertical darts should be pressed toward the center of the garment.
Curved seams sometimes need to be clipped slightly along the edges so they can be pressed open without puckering. Do not clip any closer to the seam than absolutely necessary to press the seam flat. Be careful not to cut pass the stitched seam.
Darts in heavy or bulky fabric will be less bulky if you slash in the middle, and then press open. Be careful not to slash so close to the point that the fabric will pull apart.
Press seams open over sleeve or seam roll from the wrong side with the tip of the iron along the stitching line to prevent the seam edges from marking or showing through on the right side.
Follow the grain line in the fabric when pressing by moving the iron in the same direction as the lengthwise yarns of the fabric. Pressing across the grain or on the bias can stretch the garment piece out of shape.
Following the above pressing and sewing techniques will help you achieve the professional-looking results every home sewer dreams of. So, instead of a homemade looking garment, proper pressing gives you professional results and garments that you’ll be proud to say… “I sewed it myself.”
Lissette
Most of us will agree that sewing your own clothes saves you money and brings great satisfaction. It is gratifying when you complete a project and can say that you sewed it yourself. But, perhaps the biggest reason most people do not sew their own clothes is because they look homemade. You start out with visions that the outfit will look exactly on you the way it looked on the pattern envelope, but when it’s finished it looks like something is missing. And, you can’t quite put your finger on what it is.
I remember, as a teenager, staying up all night to finish an outfit so I could wear something new the next day for a special event or occasion. Even though I thought I looked cute, people could tell it was homemade, the night before. The only time the iron touched it was when it was finished, and then I really ironed it… hard. I didn’t know what was missing until I stepped into a home economics sewing class, and saw a bunch of odd looking tools that I did not recognize, or know how to use.
What I learned in that sewing class was that the secret to making home sewing not look homemade was in the press…using those odd looking tools. I didn’t know that if I put off pressing the garment until completion, that it would be too late to set in the shape. I didn’t know that no matter how well I sewed, the professional look was also a result of proper pressing.
Yes, properly pressing seams as you sew actually shapes the garment and sets the stitching lines. As we all know, the body is not flat, it has curves, and using the ironing board alone will not shape the garment properly. The only way to shape your garment is by using the proper pressing equipment along with the ironing board.
If you are like me, and most home sewers, before taking a sewing class, you are also unfamiliar with specialized pressing equipment and not accustomed to using them. But, using the proper sewing tools along with the proper pressing and sewing techniques makes the difference in the end result. It helps shape the fabric so it will fit the body more smoothly. Some of those odd looking pressing tools are listed below:
o Steam iron for pressing and shaping fabric and setting stitches at all stages of construction.
o Ironing board, well padded and smoothly covered in 100% cotton cover, absorbs moisture from the steam iron.
o Tailor’s ham for pressing shaped areas and curved seams.
o Seam roll, or sleeve roll, for pressing seam allowances open and pressing seams in narrow areas.
o Clapper for pressing sharp creases without it looking over-pressed.
o Wooden point presser for pressing corners and points, and pressing straight seams open.
o Press cloths for protecting the right side of the fabric during pressing.
Pressing is different from ironing. When most of us iron, we use a back and forth motion, moving the iron over the fabric. In pressing, the iron is lowered to the place to be pressed, then raised off the fabric, and moved to the next area.
Ironing board covers should be 100% cotton because the all-cotton fabric absorbs the moisture so that the fashion fabric will dry quickly. The traditional ironing covers with the reflective surface, actually reflects the steam, and may cause burn damage to some fabrics and slows down the drying process when you’re shaping with steam.
First, be sure you know the fabric content to determine the proper heat setting for the iron, then follow the techniques below as you sew your garment pieces together.
Press curved areas such as darts, hiplines, bustlines and collars over the tailor’s ham from the wrong side with the point of the dart smoothed flat over the end of the ham to shape their curve. Horizontal darts should be pressed down, and vertical darts should be pressed toward the center of the garment.
Curved seams sometimes need to be clipped slightly along the edges so they can be pressed open without puckering. Do not clip any closer to the seam than absolutely necessary to press the seam flat. Be careful not to cut pass the stitched seam.
Darts in heavy or bulky fabric will be less bulky if you slash in the middle, and then press open. Be careful not to slash so close to the point that the fabric will pull apart.
Press seams open over sleeve or seam roll from the wrong side with the tip of the iron along the stitching line to prevent the seam edges from marking or showing through on the right side.
Follow the grain line in the fabric when pressing by moving the iron in the same direction as the lengthwise yarns of the fabric. Pressing across the grain or on the bias can stretch the garment piece out of shape.
Following the above pressing and sewing techniques will help you achieve the professional-looking results every home sewer dreams of. So, instead of a homemade looking garment, proper pressing gives you professional results and garments that you’ll be proud to say… “I sewed it myself.”
Lissette
May
22
What sort of sewing machine would sew victorian dresses now a days?
Filed Under Fashion & Accessories | 2 Comments
asked:
I’m looking for a sewing machine to make my own victorian dresses, corsets etc. But one that is dependable but not overly expensive if at all possible. I might just be wishful thinking but I really want to learn.
Guadalupe
I’m looking for a sewing machine to make my own victorian dresses, corsets etc. But one that is dependable but not overly expensive if at all possible. I might just be wishful thinking but I really want to learn.
Guadalupe
May
18
miss emily asked:
I am looking to buy my first sewing machine. I am taking lessons in April and though it is not required that you have your own sewing machine, I would like to get one so I can take it to lessons and learn how to use it. I don’t want anything really cheap or really expensive. I am looking for something that does the basics but also that I can grow with as I learn more. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Esteban
I am looking to buy my first sewing machine. I am taking lessons in April and though it is not required that you have your own sewing machine, I would like to get one so I can take it to lessons and learn how to use it. I don’t want anything really cheap or really expensive. I am looking for something that does the basics but also that I can grow with as I learn more. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Esteban
May
17
Sewing Machines For Sale for Beginners
Filed Under Home Improvement | Comments Off
Tim Gorman asked:
If you’re new to sewing, choosing a sewing machine can be a daunting task. There seems to be an endless array of brands, multiplied by all the different models and features that are available. It’s difficult to even know where to begin. However, the task of choosing a sewing machine becomes a lot simpler if you stop and ask yourself some questions first. By doing that, you will be able to eliminate many of the sewing machines that are available. Once you have narrowed down the range to a few models, it’s easier to do the research and work out exactly what’s going to be right for you.
There are plenty of sewing machine brands available – some you will know well, some you’ve probably never heard of before. Brother and Singer are two brands most people are familiar with. But have you heard of Janome or Juki? Just looking at the brand name won’t give you much information or guarantee about quality or price. You’re better off searching the features that will do what you want the sewing machine to do. As a starting point, a Simplicity sewing machine might be a good choice for beginners. It’s powered by batteries, so is very portable. You can perform all the basic sewing maneuvers, plus a few extra, such as the zigzag stitch.
If you want to move up the scale a little you can look at a low-end Singer. It will be a little more advanced, but is still quite basic compared to the top end machines. You can use it for all sorts of tasks, including creating garments, crafts and home d
If you’re new to sewing, choosing a sewing machine can be a daunting task. There seems to be an endless array of brands, multiplied by all the different models and features that are available. It’s difficult to even know where to begin. However, the task of choosing a sewing machine becomes a lot simpler if you stop and ask yourself some questions first. By doing that, you will be able to eliminate many of the sewing machines that are available. Once you have narrowed down the range to a few models, it’s easier to do the research and work out exactly what’s going to be right for you.
There are plenty of sewing machine brands available – some you will know well, some you’ve probably never heard of before. Brother and Singer are two brands most people are familiar with. But have you heard of Janome or Juki? Just looking at the brand name won’t give you much information or guarantee about quality or price. You’re better off searching the features that will do what you want the sewing machine to do. As a starting point, a Simplicity sewing machine might be a good choice for beginners. It’s powered by batteries, so is very portable. You can perform all the basic sewing maneuvers, plus a few extra, such as the zigzag stitch.
If you want to move up the scale a little you can look at a low-end Singer. It will be a little more advanced, but is still quite basic compared to the top end machines. You can use it for all sorts of tasks, including creating garments, crafts and home d
May
16
Sewing Enthusiasts May Consider a Heavy Duty Sewing Machine
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Gavin Cruise asked:
For sewing machine users who use their machine everyday or for large projects, finding the best heavy duty machine may be a good idea. A heavy duty machine can sew faster and more accurately than a regular home machine. In order to find the best heavy duty sewing machine, a consumer may want to read online reviews of heavy duty machines or speak with a professional about his or her needs. A used Kenmore machine will possess all of the quality the brand has to offer but may save the consumer money because it is in a used condition.
In order to find the best heavy duty sewing machine for his or her needs, a machine user should first question why he or she feels the machine needs to be purchased. If the user is starting to use the machine more frequently for projects with deadlines, he or she will need to search for a good quality machine with the fastest sewing speeds available in order to meet his or her needs. A used Kenmore heavy duty sewing machine may have fast sewing speeds that a consumer may want to consider. In order to find out what sewing speeds the different machines can accomplish, a consumer may need to look at the specifications of the product or speak with a representative of the company.
A consumer may want to find the best heavy duty sewing machine because he or she has certain projects where heavy or layered materials will need to be sewn. A machine is better for these types of projects because it has a bottom feeder that walks the fabric through the needle. The best heavy duty sewing machine can allow for an accurate finish to even the thickest or most layered materials that are being sewn. A heavy duty machine that is used can often be found on sale and a consumer may be able to get a great deal on one of these machines.
Some may achieve a stitching speed of up to 1000 stitches per minute. Used Kenmore sewing machines have fast sewing speeds which can allow a consumer to finish a project in a short period of time. Even a machine that is on sale may still be pricey. However, a sewing machine user who needs to produce projects quickly or needs a machine that can handle tough materials will find it is worth the investment.
The best heavy duty sewing machine on the market for a consumer may be found in a used condition or on sale for an affordable price. A used Kenmore machine can offer a consumer a quality machine that can also sew fast and accurately. Many consumers who are stepping up their sewing are motivated to purchase the best machine for their needs. The buyers of these machines are often impressed and happy with their purchase.
Kenny
For sewing machine users who use their machine everyday or for large projects, finding the best heavy duty machine may be a good idea. A heavy duty machine can sew faster and more accurately than a regular home machine. In order to find the best heavy duty sewing machine, a consumer may want to read online reviews of heavy duty machines or speak with a professional about his or her needs. A used Kenmore machine will possess all of the quality the brand has to offer but may save the consumer money because it is in a used condition.
In order to find the best heavy duty sewing machine for his or her needs, a machine user should first question why he or she feels the machine needs to be purchased. If the user is starting to use the machine more frequently for projects with deadlines, he or she will need to search for a good quality machine with the fastest sewing speeds available in order to meet his or her needs. A used Kenmore heavy duty sewing machine may have fast sewing speeds that a consumer may want to consider. In order to find out what sewing speeds the different machines can accomplish, a consumer may need to look at the specifications of the product or speak with a representative of the company.
A consumer may want to find the best heavy duty sewing machine because he or she has certain projects where heavy or layered materials will need to be sewn. A machine is better for these types of projects because it has a bottom feeder that walks the fabric through the needle. The best heavy duty sewing machine can allow for an accurate finish to even the thickest or most layered materials that are being sewn. A heavy duty machine that is used can often be found on sale and a consumer may be able to get a great deal on one of these machines.
Some may achieve a stitching speed of up to 1000 stitches per minute. Used Kenmore sewing machines have fast sewing speeds which can allow a consumer to finish a project in a short period of time. Even a machine that is on sale may still be pricey. However, a sewing machine user who needs to produce projects quickly or needs a machine that can handle tough materials will find it is worth the investment.
The best heavy duty sewing machine on the market for a consumer may be found in a used condition or on sale for an affordable price. A used Kenmore machine can offer a consumer a quality machine that can also sew fast and accurately. Many consumers who are stepping up their sewing are motivated to purchase the best machine for their needs. The buyers of these machines are often impressed and happy with their purchase.
Kenny
May
12
What kind of sewing machine do you recomend for a beginner? Do you use yours?
Filed Under Hobbies & Crafts | 7 Comments
TD asked:
I have wanted to learn how to sew for a long time, but never bought a sewing machine. I was afraid not to be able to teach myself and have it sitting in a corner collecting dust. Now I am taking a class and am planning on buying one soon. I was wondering if you have any advice on sewing machines. Also, I would be interested to know whether you get good use out of yours and what kinds of projects you use it mostly for (home decorating, new clothes, adjustments, repairs, etc…). Thank you for your input!
Teressa
I have wanted to learn how to sew for a long time, but never bought a sewing machine. I was afraid not to be able to teach myself and have it sitting in a corner collecting dust. Now I am taking a class and am planning on buying one soon. I was wondering if you have any advice on sewing machines. Also, I would be interested to know whether you get good use out of yours and what kinds of projects you use it mostly for (home decorating, new clothes, adjustments, repairs, etc…). Thank you for your input!
Teressa
May
10
2 Sewing Techniques On How To Sew A Reversible Vest
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Marian Lewis asked:
Here are two sewing techniques plus some good sewing tips on how to sew a reversible vest or a lined vest. One is stitched and turned; the other is stitched and bound.
Try both to help you determine your favorite sewing technique.
For both methods, follow these cutting and sewing instructions:
Choose similar weight fabrics for a reversible vest.
Preshrink all fabrics and interfacing.
Interface the vest with a fusible knit interfacing.
Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric first to make sure it will be OK.
Depending on the fabric, you may choose to interface both of the fronts and back of the vest.
Note: You may want to interface the fabric and then cut the vest pieces out of the interfaced fabric.
Carefully cut two fronts and one back from each fabric.
Make sure the front and back vest pieces are the same size in both fabrics after you cut them out. Lay one over the other to check it.
Apply any pockets or designs to each front and back layer.
For each layer:
Place right sides of the fabric together and stitch the front and back shoulder seams together. Do NOT backstitch.
Instead begin and end each seam with short stitches (18-20 per inch) for about 1 to 1-1/2 inches.
Sandwich press the seams.
Press the seams open.
At the neck and shoulder point of the shoulder seam, trim the shoulder seam allowance back at an angle for about 1-1/2 inch to eliminate bulk when the neck and armhole seams are made.
Also trim the shoulder seams of one of the layers to be just slightly less than the other layer to stagger or grade the seams when they lay on top of each other.
Continue with either Method I or Method II to finish the vest.
Method I – How To Sew To Complete A Stitched And Turned Reversible Vest
Place the two vests right sides together.
Note: Generally, when sewing a lined vest, it is a good idea to trim off about 1/8 inch from the lining before attaching it to the outer layer. This keeps the lining from showing on the outside when the vest is worn.
For a reversible vest, you may or may not want to do this.
If a bit of one of the layers shows on one of the sides, it may look like narrow piping. You are the designer. Create the look you want.
Stitch the vests armhole edges together using short stitches (18-20 stitches per inch) all the way.
Sandwich press these seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the armhole seams to 1/8 inch seam allowance. The short stitches will hold this seam.
If this is a lined vest, understitch the armhole seams and all of the other seams as well. If it is reversible, you may not want the understitching to show on the edge.
Sewing Tip: Always use short stitches and trim to 1/8 inch seam allowance to stitch a curve. Then understitch if possible. It produces a much cleaner, sharper curve instead of trimming to 1/4 inch and clipping. Try it!
After the armholes are finished, place the two right sides of the vest back together again lining up all the edges. Pin to hold the layers.
Stitch the front and neckline together.
Begin stitching about 2 inches from the side seam on the bottom of the front and stitch across the bottom of the front, up the center front and around the neck and down on the other side of the front stopping about 2 inches from the other side seam.
Use a regular stitch length to stitch across the bottom of the front and up the front. Change to a short stitch length to stitch the curve around the neck.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Trim the curved area around the neck to 1/8 inch.
Trim the rest of the seam to 1/4 inch.
Hold the scissors at an angle when you trim to help layer or grade the seam allowances or use “duckbill” scissors to help do this.
Sewing Tip: Always stagger the edges of seam allowances when they end up laying on top of each other in a finished garment.
Turn the vest right side out by pulling the fronts through the shoulders one side at a time.
Press well setting the seam lines exactly on the edge.
With right sides together, match the armhole seams and pin exactly through the stitching line to hold one on top of the other.
Stitch the side seams of both layers in one continuous step carefully walking the needle over the underarm pin.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
You may want to leave the full seam allowance here in case you have to let the vest out sometime.
Now, you have the bottom of the back open and about 2 inches on either side of the side seam toward the front.
Turn right sides together matching up the side seams. Put a pin exactly in the line of stitching in the side seams to hold one on top of the other.
Starting at one front side where you stopped stitching previously, stitch across the bottom until you come to about 2 inches from the next side seam pin and stop leaving about a 4 inch opening on that side.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Press under the unstitched seam allowances as though they were stitched.
Trim and grade the seam allowances to about 1/4 inch.
Turn the vest right side out through the 4 inch opening at the side lower edge. This opening is better than having the opening in the middle of the center back. It isn’t as noticeable.
Press well again.
At the opening, turn in and line up the edges.
To finish this opening, slip stitch it closed by hand or place a narrow strip of fusible web and fuse it closed.
If desired, topstitch the vest 1/4 inch from the edges.
Make buttonholes on both sides of the vest.
Sew 2 buttons together making a thread shank in between them. Use these double buttons through both buttonholes like cuff links. You can even use 2 different buttons as
long as they are the same size to fit through the holes.
Method II
Another method to finish your reversible vest is to sew each vest with shoulder seams and side seams.
Place the vests with wrong sides together.
Stitch 3/4 inch all around the armholes and the outer edges of the vest holding the 2 layers together.
Trim off 5/8 inch all around.
Bind all the outside edges either with self fabric, contrasting fabric, or a fold over trim or braid to finish.You can even use a decorative serged edge to finish the vest.
This is fast and easy!
It’s your choice. You are the designer!
Enjoy your vest!
It just makes sense!
Ivette
Here are two sewing techniques plus some good sewing tips on how to sew a reversible vest or a lined vest. One is stitched and turned; the other is stitched and bound.
Try both to help you determine your favorite sewing technique.
For both methods, follow these cutting and sewing instructions:
Choose similar weight fabrics for a reversible vest.
Preshrink all fabrics and interfacing.
Interface the vest with a fusible knit interfacing.
Test the interfacing on a scrap of fabric first to make sure it will be OK.
Depending on the fabric, you may choose to interface both of the fronts and back of the vest.
Note: You may want to interface the fabric and then cut the vest pieces out of the interfaced fabric.
Carefully cut two fronts and one back from each fabric.
Make sure the front and back vest pieces are the same size in both fabrics after you cut them out. Lay one over the other to check it.
Apply any pockets or designs to each front and back layer.
For each layer:
Place right sides of the fabric together and stitch the front and back shoulder seams together. Do NOT backstitch.
Instead begin and end each seam with short stitches (18-20 per inch) for about 1 to 1-1/2 inches.
Sandwich press the seams.
Press the seams open.
At the neck and shoulder point of the shoulder seam, trim the shoulder seam allowance back at an angle for about 1-1/2 inch to eliminate bulk when the neck and armhole seams are made.
Also trim the shoulder seams of one of the layers to be just slightly less than the other layer to stagger or grade the seams when they lay on top of each other.
Continue with either Method I or Method II to finish the vest.
Method I – How To Sew To Complete A Stitched And Turned Reversible Vest
Place the two vests right sides together.
Note: Generally, when sewing a lined vest, it is a good idea to trim off about 1/8 inch from the lining before attaching it to the outer layer. This keeps the lining from showing on the outside when the vest is worn.
For a reversible vest, you may or may not want to do this.
If a bit of one of the layers shows on one of the sides, it may look like narrow piping. You are the designer. Create the look you want.
Stitch the vests armhole edges together using short stitches (18-20 stitches per inch) all the way.
Sandwich press these seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the armhole seams to 1/8 inch seam allowance. The short stitches will hold this seam.
If this is a lined vest, understitch the armhole seams and all of the other seams as well. If it is reversible, you may not want the understitching to show on the edge.
Sewing Tip: Always use short stitches and trim to 1/8 inch seam allowance to stitch a curve. Then understitch if possible. It produces a much cleaner, sharper curve instead of trimming to 1/4 inch and clipping. Try it!
After the armholes are finished, place the two right sides of the vest back together again lining up all the edges. Pin to hold the layers.
Stitch the front and neckline together.
Begin stitching about 2 inches from the side seam on the bottom of the front and stitch across the bottom of the front, up the center front and around the neck and down on the other side of the front stopping about 2 inches from the other side seam.
Use a regular stitch length to stitch across the bottom of the front and up the front. Change to a short stitch length to stitch the curve around the neck.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Trim the curved area around the neck to 1/8 inch.
Trim the rest of the seam to 1/4 inch.
Hold the scissors at an angle when you trim to help layer or grade the seam allowances or use “duckbill” scissors to help do this.
Sewing Tip: Always stagger the edges of seam allowances when they end up laying on top of each other in a finished garment.
Turn the vest right side out by pulling the fronts through the shoulders one side at a time.
Press well setting the seam lines exactly on the edge.
With right sides together, match the armhole seams and pin exactly through the stitching line to hold one on top of the other.
Stitch the side seams of both layers in one continuous step carefully walking the needle over the underarm pin.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
You may want to leave the full seam allowance here in case you have to let the vest out sometime.
Now, you have the bottom of the back open and about 2 inches on either side of the side seam toward the front.
Turn right sides together matching up the side seams. Put a pin exactly in the line of stitching in the side seams to hold one on top of the other.
Starting at one front side where you stopped stitching previously, stitch across the bottom until you come to about 2 inches from the next side seam pin and stop leaving about a 4 inch opening on that side.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Press under the unstitched seam allowances as though they were stitched.
Trim and grade the seam allowances to about 1/4 inch.
Turn the vest right side out through the 4 inch opening at the side lower edge. This opening is better than having the opening in the middle of the center back. It isn’t as noticeable.
Press well again.
At the opening, turn in and line up the edges.
To finish this opening, slip stitch it closed by hand or place a narrow strip of fusible web and fuse it closed.
If desired, topstitch the vest 1/4 inch from the edges.
Make buttonholes on both sides of the vest.
Sew 2 buttons together making a thread shank in between them. Use these double buttons through both buttonholes like cuff links. You can even use 2 different buttons as
long as they are the same size to fit through the holes.
Method II
Another method to finish your reversible vest is to sew each vest with shoulder seams and side seams.
Place the vests with wrong sides together.
Stitch 3/4 inch all around the armholes and the outer edges of the vest holding the 2 layers together.
Trim off 5/8 inch all around.
Bind all the outside edges either with self fabric, contrasting fabric, or a fold over trim or braid to finish.You can even use a decorative serged edge to finish the vest.
This is fast and easy!
It’s your choice. You are the designer!
Enjoy your vest!
It just makes sense!
Ivette
May
10
What is a free-arm sewing machine and what is the advantage to owning one?
Filed Under Decorating & Remodeling | 2 Comments
hwo@sbcglobal.net asked:
I am trying to buy a sewing machine and I want to make sure that I get this feature if it is needed. I primarily sew curtains, skirts, and pants.
Spencer
I am trying to buy a sewing machine and I want to make sure that I get this feature if it is needed. I primarily sew curtains, skirts, and pants.
Spencer
May
9
What’s a good sewing machine that does freemotion sewing for quilts?
Filed Under Decorating & Remodeling | 1 Comment
Amy asked:
I haven’t sewn in a while but am looking forward to sewing again.
Also what are some good online stores for sewing machines?
Verla
I haven’t sewn in a while but am looking forward to sewing again.
Also what are some good online stores for sewing machines?
Verla