Apr
27
How to Use Digital E-Patterns For Sewing Clothes
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Laura Marsh asked:
E-patterns are just like normal sewing patterns, although there is one main difference, you will buy and e-pattern as a digital format either as a download or on a CD, where as a normal sewing pattern is printed on thin tissue paper.
Many of the major sewing pattern companies are starting to offer their patterns in digital format, normally there will be a saving on the cost for the consumer, as the company doesn’t have to pay for the printing costs. Apart from the major sewing pattern companies, there are many other smaller independent sewing pattern makers who offer sewing patterns solely in digital format, which will give you a much more varied range than just those available from the big sewing pattern companies.
Once you have chosen your sewing e-pattern, you’ll pay for it and download it (or wait for the CD to arrive if you’ve chosen that option). You’ll find the sewing e-pattern will be in a digital format, this will normally be a pdf. Free pdf readers are available on the internet to enable you to open the file. Once open you simply following the printing instructions and print out your sewing e-pattern on your home printer.
You’ll be left with pages that don’t make much sense, but you need to assemble the pieces of the sewing e-pattern normally by matching up the numbers on the sides of each piece of paper, and stick them all together. Once you’ve stuck all the pieces together you’ll be able to see your sewing e-pattern now looks like a normal sewing pattern, and you just treat it as a normal pattern. Cut the sewing e-pattern to the size of the garment you require, and use it to cut the fabric pieces and sew your garment together.
Sewing e-patterns are very easy to use, and should be treated as a normal sewing pattern with the added benefits of being much cheaper to buy and you have the ability to print another it you make any mistakes with the first one, where as normal tissue paper patterns will have to be replaced should you make any mistakes.
Another benefit to sewing e-patterns which is often overlooked is storage. Many sewers will know how frustrating it is to store sewing patterns in their paper envelopes, if you have a large collection often it can be hard to find the pattern you need or you’ll find the pattern pieces don’t fit back in the original envelope and they get lost. With sewing e-patterns you can store them on CD’s or just saved on your computer and print them out when you need them, which makes for much easier, neater and more organised storage of your sewing patterns.
Birdie
E-patterns are just like normal sewing patterns, although there is one main difference, you will buy and e-pattern as a digital format either as a download or on a CD, where as a normal sewing pattern is printed on thin tissue paper.
Many of the major sewing pattern companies are starting to offer their patterns in digital format, normally there will be a saving on the cost for the consumer, as the company doesn’t have to pay for the printing costs. Apart from the major sewing pattern companies, there are many other smaller independent sewing pattern makers who offer sewing patterns solely in digital format, which will give you a much more varied range than just those available from the big sewing pattern companies.
Once you have chosen your sewing e-pattern, you’ll pay for it and download it (or wait for the CD to arrive if you’ve chosen that option). You’ll find the sewing e-pattern will be in a digital format, this will normally be a pdf. Free pdf readers are available on the internet to enable you to open the file. Once open you simply following the printing instructions and print out your sewing e-pattern on your home printer.
You’ll be left with pages that don’t make much sense, but you need to assemble the pieces of the sewing e-pattern normally by matching up the numbers on the sides of each piece of paper, and stick them all together. Once you’ve stuck all the pieces together you’ll be able to see your sewing e-pattern now looks like a normal sewing pattern, and you just treat it as a normal pattern. Cut the sewing e-pattern to the size of the garment you require, and use it to cut the fabric pieces and sew your garment together.
Sewing e-patterns are very easy to use, and should be treated as a normal sewing pattern with the added benefits of being much cheaper to buy and you have the ability to print another it you make any mistakes with the first one, where as normal tissue paper patterns will have to be replaced should you make any mistakes.
Another benefit to sewing e-patterns which is often overlooked is storage. Many sewers will know how frustrating it is to store sewing patterns in their paper envelopes, if you have a large collection often it can be hard to find the pattern you need or you’ll find the pattern pieces don’t fit back in the original envelope and they get lost. With sewing e-patterns you can store them on CD’s or just saved on your computer and print them out when you need them, which makes for much easier, neater and more organised storage of your sewing patterns.
Birdie
Apr
27
How To Sew A Lined Tank Top
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Marian Lewis asked:
Sewing projects like this one can be so much fun and save you so much money. Here are two different sewing methods on how to sew a lined tank top.
Reversible tank tops are so versatile. They are perfect to take when you travel. You get a 2 for 1 top if you use another color for the lining. You can even get 4 for 1 by using 4 different color fabrics. . . 2 colors for the 2 fronts and 2 colors for the 2 backs. This works great under suit jackets since only the front shows when you wear it.
Test for show through first. It’s a great way to use up a lot of your stash!
The necklines can even be different front and back if you like. Try sewing a v-neck front and a scoop neck back. If you have no darts for the bust, you can wear the top backwards for a different look.
Try both sewing techniques to see which one you like best.
Method I – Sew a Binding on The Neckline and Armholes
Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes to help keep them from stretching.
That is, stitch 1/2″ from the edge through a single layer of
fabric from the shoulder to the center front and center back
on the neckline.
Staystitch from the shoulder to the underarm on the armholes.
Staystitch the bottom edge of the tank 1/4″ from the edge front and back on both layers.
Join Shoulder Seams
Lay a front and a back with 2 right sides together.
Stitch the shoulder seams from the neckline to the armhole.
Repeat for the lining layer.
Sandwich press the shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the lining shoulder seams to 1/4″
Stitch Side Seams
Stitch the side seams from the bottom to the underarm on both layers.
Sandwich press the seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the lining side seams to 1/4″.
Try On To Check Fit
Before you sew the two layers together, try on the tank top to see if the neckline or the armholes gap. If they do, now is the time to fix it either with darts, easing or other neckline or armhole adjustments too involved to address here.
Sewing Tip: Use a fusible stay tape on necklines and armholes to help eliminate the gaposis problem.
Once you get the top to fit your body, make the same adjustments to the lining.
Put Tank Top and Lining Together
Lay the 2 wrong sides of the tank top and lining together.
Pin the shoulder seams one on top of the other to hold in place at the neckline and the shoulder point.
Line up and pin together at the underarms.
Pin center fronts and center backs together at the neckline
Pin the armholes together
Beginning at a shoulder seam, stitch the neckline 5/8″ to 3/4″ from the edge.
Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching. This edge will be bound and will be the finished edge of the garment.
Stitch the armhole seams 5/8″ to 3/4″. Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching.
Now the neckline and armhole edges are ready for binding.
Sewing Tip: You might like to try serging the edges with a
decorative thread or look for a decorative purchased trim to bind them. You are the designer.
Cut Fabric Binding
For a fabric binding, cut matching or contrasting bias binding to go around the neckline and both armholes 4 times wider than you want the finished binding to be.
That is, if you want 3/8″ finished binding, cut the bias 1-1/2″ wide and the length you need it to be.
Test the width of bias on scraps of your garment and lining fabric (double layer) to make sure you have enough width for the “turn of the cloth”.
Sew Binding
Sewing Tip: Use fusible thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine to sew the binding to the neckline and armholes.
Lay the right side of the binding against the right side of
the tank top with the raw edges together.
At the beginning of the binding, fold back the raw end.
Place this fold at one of the shoulder seams for the neckline. You may start the binding at the center back if you prefer, however, if you plan to wear the tank backwards, it may look better to have the binding end at one shoulder.
Place the fold to start the binding at the underarm for the
armholes.
Stitch the binding as deep as you want it to be when finished. Example: 3/8″. Slightly stretch the binding as you stitch a curve.
Overlap where you started the binding and trim off the excess. The folded edge of the binding will show when the binding is finished.
Turn the bias up over the garment edge, fold under and pin.
Lightly press to fuse the binding to hold it in place.
Either slipstitch the edge of the binding so the stitches won’t show from either side or “stitch in the ditch” or “well stitch” on the right side with the stitches showing on the lining side.
Note: The fusible thread is not enough to hold the binding
permanently. You must stitch it.
If you aren’t going to wear the tank top inside out, just leave the raw edge of the binding on the inside and “stitch in the ditch”. It eliminates bulk. Since it is bias, it won’t fray.
Hemming Options:
Hem the two layers separately. Hem the outside layer first.
Let it hang a while. Try on the garment and mark where the lining should be hemmed. Then hem the lining layer so that it doesn’t show.
Note: If the garment is not reversible, hem the lining a little shorter than the garment. If the garment is reversible, you want both layers the same length.
Hand sew a small “swing tack” at the bottom of the side seams to keep both layers together.
Optional: You can stitch both layers together at the bottom and bind it, too.
Another Option: Or, bring the 2 right sides of the bottom of the garment and lining together and stitch leaving about a 4″ opening near a side seam to turn the tank right side out.
Slipstitch or fuse the opening closed.
Method II – Create a Center Back Seam For More Choices
This is another favorite sewing technique for sewing a lined
tank top. This method requires either a center front or center back seam in the garment. It is the same technique often used for a reversible or lined vest.
If you don’t want a plain seam line down the center of your tank, then turn it into a pleat or tucks or some other design element on the garment. Be sure to allow extra fabric for the center seam plus the pleat, pintucks, etc.
How To Add For An Inverted Pleat
Here is an example of how to add for an inverted pleat. This
pleat folds toward the seam line and helps to hide it. You can add decorative or top stitching or trim, etc. to the pleat if desired. You are the designer. Do whatever suits your fancy. Get ideas from ready-to-wear.
For a 1″ inverted pleat down the center back or center front of a tank top, you need to add double the pleat (2″) plus a seam allowance (5/8″). That adds up to 2-5/8″ total that you need to add to the center front or center back fold line in order to make a 5/8″ seam and have a 1″ pleat.
You might also like the seam exposed as the focal point of a box pleat and run a row of trim or buttons down the seam line. Just fold the pleat to create a box pleat instead of an inverted pleat.
How To Sew The Tank Top
Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes on both layers to prevent stretching as specified in Method I.
Stitch the shoulder seams on both layers. Press and trim as in Method I.
Do NOT make the center seam. For our example, we will use a center back seam.
Put the 2 right sides together of the tank and the lining together
Stitch the armholes, trim and understitch. Use short stitches (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and understitch.
For the neckline, beginning on the back about 2″ before the
shoulder seam, stitch around the neckline and stop 2″ beyond
the other shoulder seam.
Trim seam and understitch. Use short stitches to stitch a curve (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and understitch.
Leave the back neckline unstitched until after you make the seam and pleat in the center back. It is fine for now.
Turn Right Side Out
Now, pull the split unstitched right and left backs through each shoulder to turn right side out.
Press the stitched neckline and armholes well with understitching up at the board.
Stitch Center Seam
Stitch the center seam at 5/8″. Sandwich press. Press seam open.
Mark Pleat
With the face side up, mark fold lines 2″ away from either side of the seam line. Bring those lines over to the seam line and press the pleat in place.
You can stitch 1″ from the marked fold if desired.
Repeat for the lining.
Finish Back Neckline
Now, finish the back neckline. Stitch with short stitches, trim, understitch, press.
Shoulders, neckline, and armholes are finished.
Sew Side Seams
Lay the right sides together for both the garment and the
lining.
Pin the underarm seams one on top of the other matching exactly.
Start at the bottom of the garment and stitch in a continuous seam up to the armhole, stop, walk your sewing machine over the pin, and keep stitching down the lining side seam.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Do not trim this lining seam in case you need to let the garment out.
Turn the lining layer down inside the garment.
Finish The Bottom
Finish the bottom as described above with either separate hems, or. . .
Stitch the two layers together leaving an opening near a side seam and turn right side out.
Design Your Own Tank Style Garments
Change your necklines, add slits to the side, or lengthen
the tank top pattern for tunic, knee length, or floor length. Just make sure to allow room for hip width plus ease.
Perfect the fit on your tank top sewing pattern. Use it to sew blouses, dresses, beach cover-ups, night gowns, vests and sleeveless jackets.
Sew a whole wardrobe using different fabrics like silk, lace, fleece, leather, suede, denim, upholstery fabrics, sheers, cottons, knits, quilted fabric, whatever you want.
Add decorative stitching, appliques, embroidery, fabric manipulation; try out all your sewing techniques, paints, etc.
Have fun designing your own unique tank wardrobe. They are
quick and easy sewing projects.
It just makes sense!
Karissa
Sewing projects like this one can be so much fun and save you so much money. Here are two different sewing methods on how to sew a lined tank top.
Reversible tank tops are so versatile. They are perfect to take when you travel. You get a 2 for 1 top if you use another color for the lining. You can even get 4 for 1 by using 4 different color fabrics. . . 2 colors for the 2 fronts and 2 colors for the 2 backs. This works great under suit jackets since only the front shows when you wear it.
Test for show through first. It’s a great way to use up a lot of your stash!
The necklines can even be different front and back if you like. Try sewing a v-neck front and a scoop neck back. If you have no darts for the bust, you can wear the top backwards for a different look.
Try both sewing techniques to see which one you like best.
Method I – Sew a Binding on The Neckline and Armholes
Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes to help keep them from stretching.
That is, stitch 1/2″ from the edge through a single layer of
fabric from the shoulder to the center front and center back
on the neckline.
Staystitch from the shoulder to the underarm on the armholes.
Staystitch the bottom edge of the tank 1/4″ from the edge front and back on both layers.
Join Shoulder Seams
Lay a front and a back with 2 right sides together.
Stitch the shoulder seams from the neckline to the armhole.
Repeat for the lining layer.
Sandwich press the shoulder seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the lining shoulder seams to 1/4″
Stitch Side Seams
Stitch the side seams from the bottom to the underarm on both layers.
Sandwich press the seams.
Press the seams open.
Trim the lining side seams to 1/4″.
Try On To Check Fit
Before you sew the two layers together, try on the tank top to see if the neckline or the armholes gap. If they do, now is the time to fix it either with darts, easing or other neckline or armhole adjustments too involved to address here.
Sewing Tip: Use a fusible stay tape on necklines and armholes to help eliminate the gaposis problem.
Once you get the top to fit your body, make the same adjustments to the lining.
Put Tank Top and Lining Together
Lay the 2 wrong sides of the tank top and lining together.
Pin the shoulder seams one on top of the other to hold in place at the neckline and the shoulder point.
Line up and pin together at the underarms.
Pin center fronts and center backs together at the neckline
Pin the armholes together
Beginning at a shoulder seam, stitch the neckline 5/8″ to 3/4″ from the edge.
Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching. This edge will be bound and will be the finished edge of the garment.
Stitch the armhole seams 5/8″ to 3/4″. Trim off the seam allowance close to the stitching.
Now the neckline and armhole edges are ready for binding.
Sewing Tip: You might like to try serging the edges with a
decorative thread or look for a decorative purchased trim to bind them. You are the designer.
Cut Fabric Binding
For a fabric binding, cut matching or contrasting bias binding to go around the neckline and both armholes 4 times wider than you want the finished binding to be.
That is, if you want 3/8″ finished binding, cut the bias 1-1/2″ wide and the length you need it to be.
Test the width of bias on scraps of your garment and lining fabric (double layer) to make sure you have enough width for the “turn of the cloth”.
Sew Binding
Sewing Tip: Use fusible thread in the bobbin of your sewing machine to sew the binding to the neckline and armholes.
Lay the right side of the binding against the right side of
the tank top with the raw edges together.
At the beginning of the binding, fold back the raw end.
Place this fold at one of the shoulder seams for the neckline. You may start the binding at the center back if you prefer, however, if you plan to wear the tank backwards, it may look better to have the binding end at one shoulder.
Place the fold to start the binding at the underarm for the
armholes.
Stitch the binding as deep as you want it to be when finished. Example: 3/8″. Slightly stretch the binding as you stitch a curve.
Overlap where you started the binding and trim off the excess. The folded edge of the binding will show when the binding is finished.
Turn the bias up over the garment edge, fold under and pin.
Lightly press to fuse the binding to hold it in place.
Either slipstitch the edge of the binding so the stitches won’t show from either side or “stitch in the ditch” or “well stitch” on the right side with the stitches showing on the lining side.
Note: The fusible thread is not enough to hold the binding
permanently. You must stitch it.
If you aren’t going to wear the tank top inside out, just leave the raw edge of the binding on the inside and “stitch in the ditch”. It eliminates bulk. Since it is bias, it won’t fray.
Hemming Options:
Hem the two layers separately. Hem the outside layer first.
Let it hang a while. Try on the garment and mark where the lining should be hemmed. Then hem the lining layer so that it doesn’t show.
Note: If the garment is not reversible, hem the lining a little shorter than the garment. If the garment is reversible, you want both layers the same length.
Hand sew a small “swing tack” at the bottom of the side seams to keep both layers together.
Optional: You can stitch both layers together at the bottom and bind it, too.
Another Option: Or, bring the 2 right sides of the bottom of the garment and lining together and stitch leaving about a 4″ opening near a side seam to turn the tank right side out.
Slipstitch or fuse the opening closed.
Method II – Create a Center Back Seam For More Choices
This is another favorite sewing technique for sewing a lined
tank top. This method requires either a center front or center back seam in the garment. It is the same technique often used for a reversible or lined vest.
If you don’t want a plain seam line down the center of your tank, then turn it into a pleat or tucks or some other design element on the garment. Be sure to allow extra fabric for the center seam plus the pleat, pintucks, etc.
How To Add For An Inverted Pleat
Here is an example of how to add for an inverted pleat. This
pleat folds toward the seam line and helps to hide it. You can add decorative or top stitching or trim, etc. to the pleat if desired. You are the designer. Do whatever suits your fancy. Get ideas from ready-to-wear.
For a 1″ inverted pleat down the center back or center front of a tank top, you need to add double the pleat (2″) plus a seam allowance (5/8″). That adds up to 2-5/8″ total that you need to add to the center front or center back fold line in order to make a 5/8″ seam and have a 1″ pleat.
You might also like the seam exposed as the focal point of a box pleat and run a row of trim or buttons down the seam line. Just fold the pleat to create a box pleat instead of an inverted pleat.
How To Sew The Tank Top
Directionally staystitch the necklines and armholes on both layers to prevent stretching as specified in Method I.
Stitch the shoulder seams on both layers. Press and trim as in Method I.
Do NOT make the center seam. For our example, we will use a center back seam.
Put the 2 right sides together of the tank and the lining together
Stitch the armholes, trim and understitch. Use short stitches (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and understitch.
For the neckline, beginning on the back about 2″ before the
shoulder seam, stitch around the neckline and stop 2″ beyond
the other shoulder seam.
Trim seam and understitch. Use short stitches to stitch a curve (18-20 per inch); trim to 1/8″ and understitch.
Leave the back neckline unstitched until after you make the seam and pleat in the center back. It is fine for now.
Turn Right Side Out
Now, pull the split unstitched right and left backs through each shoulder to turn right side out.
Press the stitched neckline and armholes well with understitching up at the board.
Stitch Center Seam
Stitch the center seam at 5/8″. Sandwich press. Press seam open.
Mark Pleat
With the face side up, mark fold lines 2″ away from either side of the seam line. Bring those lines over to the seam line and press the pleat in place.
You can stitch 1″ from the marked fold if desired.
Repeat for the lining.
Finish Back Neckline
Now, finish the back neckline. Stitch with short stitches, trim, understitch, press.
Shoulders, neckline, and armholes are finished.
Sew Side Seams
Lay the right sides together for both the garment and the
lining.
Pin the underarm seams one on top of the other matching exactly.
Start at the bottom of the garment and stitch in a continuous seam up to the armhole, stop, walk your sewing machine over the pin, and keep stitching down the lining side seam.
Sandwich press the seam.
Press the seam open.
Do not trim this lining seam in case you need to let the garment out.
Turn the lining layer down inside the garment.
Finish The Bottom
Finish the bottom as described above with either separate hems, or. . .
Stitch the two layers together leaving an opening near a side seam and turn right side out.
Design Your Own Tank Style Garments
Change your necklines, add slits to the side, or lengthen
the tank top pattern for tunic, knee length, or floor length. Just make sure to allow room for hip width plus ease.
Perfect the fit on your tank top sewing pattern. Use it to sew blouses, dresses, beach cover-ups, night gowns, vests and sleeveless jackets.
Sew a whole wardrobe using different fabrics like silk, lace, fleece, leather, suede, denim, upholstery fabrics, sheers, cottons, knits, quilted fabric, whatever you want.
Add decorative stitching, appliques, embroidery, fabric manipulation; try out all your sewing techniques, paints, etc.
Have fun designing your own unique tank wardrobe. They are
quick and easy sewing projects.
It just makes sense!
Karissa
Apr
26
What type of sewing machine would be strong enough to sew faux fur?
Filed Under Hobbies & Crafts | 7 Comments
ludicrousy asked:
I’m going to be taking fursuit commissions soon, and hand stitching just takes too long.
Any ideas on what type of sewing machine I can use? I tried using my old sewing machine and it just broke down when I tried to put the fur through it.
I’m going to be taking fursuit commissions soon, and hand stitching just takes too long.
Any ideas on what type of sewing machine I can use? I tried using my old sewing machine and it just broke down when I tried to put the fur through it.
Thanks!
Gilberto
Apr
25
Sewing Tips – Make A Cutting Mat That Doesn’t Slip
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Marian Lewis asked:
When you are sewing, rotary cutting mats are great for cutting with a rotary cutter. However, when you are cutting slippery fabrics, it is difficult to keep the fabric where you want it.
Here is a sewing tip on how you can make your own non-slip cutting mat.
Create A Cork Top Table
Use cork sheeting as a non-slip cutting mat when you are sewing and cutting silky, slippery fabrics or anytime you are cutting with dressmaker shears. The fabric doesn’t move around like it does on the rotary mat. Poke your pins right into the cork to hold your fashion fabric. This is great for tracing patterns, too. Stabbing the pins into the cork holds everything in place.
Find cork sheeting at your local hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes. Wider widths are available there. Craft stores usually carry only narrow widths. Have the hardware store cut the cork to the size of your cutting table.
Draw vertical, horizontal and bias lines on it with permanent marker if you like. Glue a tape measure along the ends for quick measuring.
Cork sheeting is flexible and lightweight. You can roll it up when not in use. Or, keep it on top of or under your rotary cutting mat so that it is handy when you need it. It will keep the rotary mat from slipping on the table if you keep the cork under the rotary mat when not in use.
Another idea is to use cork tiles to create a cork top table.
More Sewing Tips
Raise Your Table Legs
To help prevent back aches, raise your cutting table up higher by placing tall cans like juice cans under each leg. This helps tremendously.
If you want to permanently raise the legs of your table and the legs are tubular, you might try PVC pipe. Put caps on the ends of the pipe or use casters to keep the legs from marking the floor.
Steady Your Sewing and Overlock Machines
Use a square of cork sheeting under your overlock-serger or sewing machine to keep it from moving around when you sew. This is also good on the floor to keep your foot pedal from sliding around.
Make A Portable Cork Cutting Mat
Glue some cork sheeting to the backside of your small portable rotary cutting mat so you can take it with you when you go to your sewing classes or travel. Then, you will have both mats available when you need them.
Make A Cork Bulletin Board
Make a cork bulletin board to post your sewing notes, etc. Recycle an old picture frame. Glue cork to a piece of cardboard and frame it.
Or frame the cork with some trim from your stash or glue measure tapes around it or old spools of thread.
It just makes sense!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Karol
When you are sewing, rotary cutting mats are great for cutting with a rotary cutter. However, when you are cutting slippery fabrics, it is difficult to keep the fabric where you want it.
Here is a sewing tip on how you can make your own non-slip cutting mat.
Create A Cork Top Table
Use cork sheeting as a non-slip cutting mat when you are sewing and cutting silky, slippery fabrics or anytime you are cutting with dressmaker shears. The fabric doesn’t move around like it does on the rotary mat. Poke your pins right into the cork to hold your fashion fabric. This is great for tracing patterns, too. Stabbing the pins into the cork holds everything in place.
Find cork sheeting at your local hardware store like Home Depot or Lowes. Wider widths are available there. Craft stores usually carry only narrow widths. Have the hardware store cut the cork to the size of your cutting table.
Draw vertical, horizontal and bias lines on it with permanent marker if you like. Glue a tape measure along the ends for quick measuring.
Cork sheeting is flexible and lightweight. You can roll it up when not in use. Or, keep it on top of or under your rotary cutting mat so that it is handy when you need it. It will keep the rotary mat from slipping on the table if you keep the cork under the rotary mat when not in use.
Another idea is to use cork tiles to create a cork top table.
More Sewing Tips
Raise Your Table Legs
To help prevent back aches, raise your cutting table up higher by placing tall cans like juice cans under each leg. This helps tremendously.
If you want to permanently raise the legs of your table and the legs are tubular, you might try PVC pipe. Put caps on the ends of the pipe or use casters to keep the legs from marking the floor.
Steady Your Sewing and Overlock Machines
Use a square of cork sheeting under your overlock-serger or sewing machine to keep it from moving around when you sew. This is also good on the floor to keep your foot pedal from sliding around.
Make A Portable Cork Cutting Mat
Glue some cork sheeting to the backside of your small portable rotary cutting mat so you can take it with you when you go to your sewing classes or travel. Then, you will have both mats available when you need them.
Make A Cork Bulletin Board
Make a cork bulletin board to post your sewing notes, etc. Recycle an old picture frame. Glue cork to a piece of cardboard and frame it.
Or frame the cork with some trim from your stash or glue measure tapes around it or old spools of thread.
It just makes sense!
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Karol
Apr
25
Basic Sewing Machine Maintenance
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Will F asked:
There is a huge list of things you need to do to keep your sewing machine in working order but these are the basics that you need to look out for on a daily basis. Not only will this list keep your machine working it is also important for your safety. Sewing machines are not toys. They can maim or even kill if not serviced correctly. For safety reasons we advise unplugging your machine from the mains before attempting to do any maintenance.
Removing Lint
Lint is a build up of fluff from using thread. Although it looks harmless enough it builds up in hard to reach areas and clogs up the mechanism of your sewing machine.
Open up any casings you can on your machine and clean the lint out with a small brush. You will generally find a build up near the bobbin case. Don’t use a vacuum cleaner. It has too harsh a suck and can remove small parts and oil.
Try to clean the lint from your sewing machine every time you have finished a project. That way your machine will always be ready for use.
Sewing Machine Oil
Use proper oil! Don’t use the stuff you put in your car engine because it won’t penetrate the moving parts properly. Proper sewing machine oil is clear and you may have had some included with the purchase of your machine. If not you can buy it quite easily as most sewing shops. Refer to your owners manual for the areas that need regular oiling. Some machines have these areas marked but check your manual anyway.
After oiling run a few stitches over some scrap fabric. This allows any excess oil to escape onto the scrap piece and not on your new sewing project.
Oiling your machine properly stops wear and tear and keeps everything working smoothly. It also prevents rust which can form on surface areas. Rust doesn’t only stain your fabrics it gets into the mechanism of your sewing machine and grinds away at the moving parts.
Loose Screws
As you oil your machine check for any screws that may have become loose and tighten them as necessary. Some may require a hex key to tighten so it maybe worth getting hold of a set if you can.
If you find a missing screw don’t use the machine until it has been replaced. A missing screw can cause huge damage to your machine particularly if it’s part of the timing mechanism.
Electrics
Look out for wires that have split or where the outer PVC covering is becoming worn. This won’t usually be a problem on the inside workings of the sewing machine as those wires are generally fixed and don’t move.
The most common fault is with the cable on the pedal. Make sure it’s not being stretched when in use. Make sure the outer PVC of the cable is not split and showing the copper inner cores.
Check the plug where it fits into your machine. With a lot of use these can wear and become sloppy causing your machine to short out at the most inconvenient of moments.
If you find any electrical faults I would advise taking your machine to a competent electrician or servicing agent as you cannot be too careful when it comes to electricity.
To Conclude
As I said in the beginning these are only the basics of sewing machine maintenance. Later I will go into more detailed servicing but if you follow the simple steps often you will spend less time having your sewing machine repaired and keep your machine in good working order.
Eulalia
There is a huge list of things you need to do to keep your sewing machine in working order but these are the basics that you need to look out for on a daily basis. Not only will this list keep your machine working it is also important for your safety. Sewing machines are not toys. They can maim or even kill if not serviced correctly. For safety reasons we advise unplugging your machine from the mains before attempting to do any maintenance.
Removing Lint
Lint is a build up of fluff from using thread. Although it looks harmless enough it builds up in hard to reach areas and clogs up the mechanism of your sewing machine.
Open up any casings you can on your machine and clean the lint out with a small brush. You will generally find a build up near the bobbin case. Don’t use a vacuum cleaner. It has too harsh a suck and can remove small parts and oil.
Try to clean the lint from your sewing machine every time you have finished a project. That way your machine will always be ready for use.
Sewing Machine Oil
Use proper oil! Don’t use the stuff you put in your car engine because it won’t penetrate the moving parts properly. Proper sewing machine oil is clear and you may have had some included with the purchase of your machine. If not you can buy it quite easily as most sewing shops. Refer to your owners manual for the areas that need regular oiling. Some machines have these areas marked but check your manual anyway.
After oiling run a few stitches over some scrap fabric. This allows any excess oil to escape onto the scrap piece and not on your new sewing project.
Oiling your machine properly stops wear and tear and keeps everything working smoothly. It also prevents rust which can form on surface areas. Rust doesn’t only stain your fabrics it gets into the mechanism of your sewing machine and grinds away at the moving parts.
Loose Screws
As you oil your machine check for any screws that may have become loose and tighten them as necessary. Some may require a hex key to tighten so it maybe worth getting hold of a set if you can.
If you find a missing screw don’t use the machine until it has been replaced. A missing screw can cause huge damage to your machine particularly if it’s part of the timing mechanism.
Electrics
Look out for wires that have split or where the outer PVC covering is becoming worn. This won’t usually be a problem on the inside workings of the sewing machine as those wires are generally fixed and don’t move.
The most common fault is with the cable on the pedal. Make sure it’s not being stretched when in use. Make sure the outer PVC of the cable is not split and showing the copper inner cores.
Check the plug where it fits into your machine. With a lot of use these can wear and become sloppy causing your machine to short out at the most inconvenient of moments.
If you find any electrical faults I would advise taking your machine to a competent electrician or servicing agent as you cannot be too careful when it comes to electricity.
To Conclude
As I said in the beginning these are only the basics of sewing machine maintenance. Later I will go into more detailed servicing but if you follow the simple steps often you will spend less time having your sewing machine repaired and keep your machine in good working order.
Eulalia
Apr
24
Where can I find sewing patterns of plushies/stuffed animals?
Filed Under Hobbies & Crafts | 2 Comments
Ellie asked:
I’ve been obsessed lately with Lolita and was planning on wearing several Lolita outfits next year at the local anime conventions. Now, clothing sewing patterns are not hard to find, but plushie sewing patterns aren’t sold in many craft stores or Wal-Mart. My question is where can I find sewing patterns to make my own Lolita animal characters?
Jovita
I’ve been obsessed lately with Lolita and was planning on wearing several Lolita outfits next year at the local anime conventions. Now, clothing sewing patterns are not hard to find, but plushie sewing patterns aren’t sold in many craft stores or Wal-Mart. My question is where can I find sewing patterns to make my own Lolita animal characters?
Jovita
Apr
20
i need to find the Easy Sew Portable Sewing machine sewing manual, and it is driving me crazy. Anyone?
Filed Under Do It Yourself (DIY) | 1 Comment
Amanda H asked:
I have had this sewing machine for a while, and it has just come up where i can’t fine the manual. It is drivine me crazy, and i have been looking for it online, but to no avail. Does anyone know where i can find it, or could they send it to me in a PDF file so that i can use it? I desperately need it.
Benny
I have had this sewing machine for a while, and it has just come up where i can’t fine the manual. It is drivine me crazy, and i have been looking for it online, but to no avail. Does anyone know where i can find it, or could they send it to me in a PDF file so that i can use it? I desperately need it.
Benny
Apr
19
Sewing Basics – Basic Things to Know About the Sewing Machine
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Ilse Hagen asked:
The function of sewing machine is to provide you with not just an easier time in sewing but to make sure that your stitches are sturdier as well. A sewing machine is normally made up of one or more need heads, a bobbin apparatus, a feed dog which moves the fabric, and a platform that holds the fabric. Home sewing machines typically have one head while the industrial units have room for two or more to create stitches that are more complex. Depending on the setting, the function of sewing machine can address sewing using two or more threads for every stitch, drawing threads for several spools.
Types of sewing machines
Types of sewing machines include the following:
Mechanical: A mechanical sewing machine is manually operated using rotary pedals or wheels. The most inexpensive in the market, it features adjustment dials to control the lengths and widths of stitches as well as tension.
Electronic: An electronic sewing machine uses AC power in order to control the feed, the needle, and all other movable parts. With automated or push-button controls, its functions include stitching adjustments, feeding the fabric, and spooling. Depending on model, some also include options that are preset for common stitches.
Computerized: Computerized sewing machines function with the aid of computer chips that dictate movements and functions. Repetitive stitches have been programmed into the computer chips, allowing you to work on big areas without the need to replicate a stitch. In most models, you can also download patterns for stitches that you can then program to be used.
Buying tips
If you’re looking for newer stitches, then a computerized sewing machine might be ideal for you since you can download the patterns you want to use. Sewing machines with single functions are great for decorative work. Look for a model that features interchangeable needle options so you can work with a wider range of fabrics. Heavy fabrics require thick needles, while light fabrics need thin needles. The function of sewing machine should feature adjustable lengths and widths for stitches as much as possible for versatility.
Alpha
The function of sewing machine is to provide you with not just an easier time in sewing but to make sure that your stitches are sturdier as well. A sewing machine is normally made up of one or more need heads, a bobbin apparatus, a feed dog which moves the fabric, and a platform that holds the fabric. Home sewing machines typically have one head while the industrial units have room for two or more to create stitches that are more complex. Depending on the setting, the function of sewing machine can address sewing using two or more threads for every stitch, drawing threads for several spools.
Types of sewing machines
Types of sewing machines include the following:
Mechanical: A mechanical sewing machine is manually operated using rotary pedals or wheels. The most inexpensive in the market, it features adjustment dials to control the lengths and widths of stitches as well as tension.
Electronic: An electronic sewing machine uses AC power in order to control the feed, the needle, and all other movable parts. With automated or push-button controls, its functions include stitching adjustments, feeding the fabric, and spooling. Depending on model, some also include options that are preset for common stitches.
Computerized: Computerized sewing machines function with the aid of computer chips that dictate movements and functions. Repetitive stitches have been programmed into the computer chips, allowing you to work on big areas without the need to replicate a stitch. In most models, you can also download patterns for stitches that you can then program to be used.
Buying tips
If you’re looking for newer stitches, then a computerized sewing machine might be ideal for you since you can download the patterns you want to use. Sewing machines with single functions are great for decorative work. Look for a model that features interchangeable needle options so you can work with a wider range of fabrics. Heavy fabrics require thick needles, while light fabrics need thin needles. The function of sewing machine should feature adjustable lengths and widths for stitches as much as possible for versatility.
Alpha
Apr
17
Commercial Sewing Machines
Filed Under Home And Family | Comments Off
Alison Cole asked:
Home sewing machines are sometimes not enough for all sewing tasks. There are home sewing machines offering a wide variety of stitch options and accessories that can make clothing construction very easy and pleasant. Sewing of heavy fabric materials for pillows, cushions or slipcovers make the home sewing machine unsuitable for all sewing tasks. The limitations of home sewing machines were overcome with the introduction of commercial sewing machines. Commercial sewing machines are all-purpose sewing machines designed mainly for the hobbyist or for the artisan trade. They differ from home sewing machines but, carry a lot of features of the industrial sewing machines.
Commercial sewing machines are mostly all metal, but may have some plastic parts and gears. All industrial sewing machines are considered as commercial sewing machines. Commercial sewing machines have machine motors. They are built for heavy-duty, all-day work. But some of them are not recommended for a steady 8 hour work day. They are self-oiling, which keeps the machine in top working condition. Speed is the biggest advantage of commercial sewing machines over home sewing machines. They can easily sew over heavy fabrics and multiple layers of different fabrics. Shoes, gloves, hats, books, upholstery, hosiery, tents, awnings, flags, and sails can also be sewn on specially devised commercial sewing machines.
Commercial sewing machines are available in portable and power stand models. Commercial portable sewing machines can be used for on-site jobs. Most popular brands are Singer, Brother, Juki, and Pfaff. Others are Nakajami, Wilcox & Gibbs, Union Special, Reece, Artisan, Pegasus, Barudan, Rimoldi, Columbia, Fishbein, Kansai, Mitsubishi, Merrow, Toyota, Tajima, Yamato, Consew, Chandler and U.S. Blindstitch. Prices range from $600 to $10,000.
Before buying a commercial sewing machine, check on the reliability of the product and warranty features.
Rosalia
Home sewing machines are sometimes not enough for all sewing tasks. There are home sewing machines offering a wide variety of stitch options and accessories that can make clothing construction very easy and pleasant. Sewing of heavy fabric materials for pillows, cushions or slipcovers make the home sewing machine unsuitable for all sewing tasks. The limitations of home sewing machines were overcome with the introduction of commercial sewing machines. Commercial sewing machines are all-purpose sewing machines designed mainly for the hobbyist or for the artisan trade. They differ from home sewing machines but, carry a lot of features of the industrial sewing machines.
Commercial sewing machines are mostly all metal, but may have some plastic parts and gears. All industrial sewing machines are considered as commercial sewing machines. Commercial sewing machines have machine motors. They are built for heavy-duty, all-day work. But some of them are not recommended for a steady 8 hour work day. They are self-oiling, which keeps the machine in top working condition. Speed is the biggest advantage of commercial sewing machines over home sewing machines. They can easily sew over heavy fabrics and multiple layers of different fabrics. Shoes, gloves, hats, books, upholstery, hosiery, tents, awnings, flags, and sails can also be sewn on specially devised commercial sewing machines.
Commercial sewing machines are available in portable and power stand models. Commercial portable sewing machines can be used for on-site jobs. Most popular brands are Singer, Brother, Juki, and Pfaff. Others are Nakajami, Wilcox & Gibbs, Union Special, Reece, Artisan, Pegasus, Barudan, Rimoldi, Columbia, Fishbein, Kansai, Mitsubishi, Merrow, Toyota, Tajima, Yamato, Consew, Chandler and U.S. Blindstitch. Prices range from $600 to $10,000.
Before buying a commercial sewing machine, check on the reliability of the product and warranty features.
Rosalia
Apr
13
What is the best brand for a sewing machine for a begginer?
Filed Under Hobbies & Crafts | 10 Comments
♥ Queenie ♥ asked:
I am n the market for a sewing machine, but I am a beginner, and don’t want to spend alot of money on my first machine. I don’t want it for heavy duty sewing, mostly to sew clothes for my daughter. Thank you for any and all input.
Lorenzo
I am n the market for a sewing machine, but I am a beginner, and don’t want to spend alot of money on my first machine. I don’t want it for heavy duty sewing, mostly to sew clothes for my daughter. Thank you for any and all input.
Lorenzo